How to Draught-Proof Your House Cheaply

You do not need a big budget to make a house feel warmer. A few pounds of seal and an afternoon of work targets the gaps that make rooms feel cold even when the heating is on. Work through the house in this order, starting with the biggest leaks.

1. Front and back doors

These have the largest gaps. Fit a brush strip or silicone sweep to the bottom, foam or rubber tape round the frame, a brush cover on the letterbox and a cap over the keyhole.

2. Windows

Check the frames first. Casement windows suit foam or D-profile tape. Sliding sashes suit brush strip. If double glazing whistles, the rubber gasket may have perished and can be replaced with a new uPVC seal. See our guide on draught-proofing uPVC windows.

3. Unused chimneys

An open chimney is one of the biggest holes in a house. A wool pad or inflatable balloon blocks it in an unused fireplace, and lifts out when you want a fire. Remove it before lighting anything.

4. The loft hatch

Warm air rises, and a hatch that does not seal lets it into the roof. Stick a thick foam strip around the frame and add insulation on top of the hatch.

5. Floors and skirting

Gaps between floorboards and under skirting boards let air in from the void below. Flexible sealant in the gap between the skirting and the floor is a cheap fix, and can be done in an afternoon.

6. Pipes, cables and vents you do not need

Gaps around pipes that go through walls or floors can be sealed with flexible filler. Do not seal vents that exist for a reason, such as extractor fans, air bricks and flues.

7. The garage

If your garage is attached or has a door into the house, seal the internal door and the garage door. A garage threshold and brush strip keeps out cold air and water.

A rough order of value

Open chimneys and letterboxes
Front and back door gaps
Windows and loft hatch
Everything else

Do not overdo it

Homes need fresh air to stay healthy. Draught-proofing is about removing uncontrolled leaks, not sealing the house airtight. Keep trickle vents and extractor fans working, and do not block any appliance flue or air vent.

Products mentioned in this guide

Draught Excluder Tape & Foam Strips

Self-adhesive foam, EPDM rubber and brush tape for the gaps around door and window frames.

Shop tape & strips

Door Bottom Seals & Brush Strips

Self-adhesive silicone sweeps, screw-fixed brush strips and clip-on covers that close the gap permanently.

Shop door seals

Chimney Draught Excluders

Wool chimney pads and an inflatable chimney balloon to block an unused fireplace.

Shop chimney

Quick answers

Where is most heat lost through draughts?

Common draught points are the gaps around doors and windows, letterboxes, keyholes, open chimneys, loft hatches, floorboards and service pipes. The Energy Saving Trust and other UK sources list the same areas.

How do I find the draughts in my home?

On a windy day, hold a lit incense stick or a tissue near gaps and watch for movement, or feel along frames with the back of your hand. Our guide to finding draughts covers it step by step.

Will draught-proofing make my home damp?

Sealing every gap could reduce ventilation. Keep trickle vents, extractor fans and air bricks open, and never block flues serving fires or boilers.